Orchids

ORCHIDS

ORCHIDS AND HANA TROPICALS

Hana Tropicals is an orchid and tropical flower farm located in Hana. We concentrate

on the growing of orchids known as Dendrobium. Hawaii, and especially Hana on the

island of Maui, provide an ideal growing situation for these lovely orchids. The Hawaiian

Dendrobium is appreciated for its long arching sprays, greater number of flowers on

a spray (as many as 12 to 30 blossoms), and lasting quality. The Hawaiian-grown

Den-drobium orchids are available in a great variety of colors which include yellows,

lavenders, two-tones, pinks, purples and whites.

Dendrobium is derived from the Greek words dendron (tree) and bios (life) ---an allusion

to the epiphytic behavior of many of these orchids. With more than 2000 species,

Dendrobiums have been found in the wilds from India to New Zealand, including much

of Asia and all of Oceania.

A VERY Short History of Orchids

In the world of flowers, orchids are the undisputed aristocrats. They have always been

a symbol of love, tenderness, joy and friendship. Exotic orchids arouse an intense

fascination in those of us who having once seen them, fall under their spell. Orchids

have a magic that is part sorcery, part romance; setting them apart and above all other

plants. And, as in the quest of the hand of a beautiful woman, men have obsessed,

fought and even died in the search for new orchids over the centuries.

Orchids were long the exclusive realm of the wealthy. They were hoarded, kept from the

“sensitive eyes of women” and even bequeathed to others at the death of their owners.

Today, orchids are readily available to all of us. When cared for properly, they are

surprisingly easy to grow. The incredible beauty and diversity of orchids captivate; often

creating an obsessive and chronic fever called orchid mania ...so beware! You could very

well be the next conquest of this mysterious flower.

Orchid Care

Summary of Optimum Orchid Conditions

Brassia,

Miltonia,

Miltassia

Cattleya 70-85F Day

Cymbidium 70-80F Day

Temperature Water Light Fertilize

75-80F Day

55-60F Night

55-65F Night

45-60F Night

▪Every 4-6 Days

▪Never allow to

remain dry for any

length of time

▪Every 5-7 Days

▪Allow to nearly dry

between waterings

▪Every 5-7 Days

▪Keep evenly moist,

Dendrobium 70-90F Day

less water in winter

▪Every 5-7 Days

▪Keep almost moist,

drier in winter

Oncidium Up to 75F Day

45-65F Night

If the night

temperature is

below 55F the

plant will not

produce flowers.

55-65F Night

Paphiopedilum 70-80F Day

Phalaenopsis 65-90F Day

Vanda 75-85F Day

50-65F Night

55-70F Night

Not below 60F

Night

▪Every 6-8 Days

▪Allow to dry between

waterings

▪Use fine mist when

weather is hot

▪Every 5-7 Days

▪Keep evenly moist,

avoid wet foliage

▪Every 5-7 Days

▪Keep evenly moist,

avoid wet foliage

▪Keep evenly moist,

Do not dry out

Green Thumb Tips

• Placement

• Watering

• Air and Light

• When you bring a flowering orchid home, leave it in its “ugly” plastic pot

for easier watering. Hide the plastic pot in a pretty cachepot and place it

wherever it makes you happy.

• To water your orchids, take the plant in its plastic pot out of the cache pot

and place it in the sink. Run water until it drains through the drain holes.

Let the pot sit in the sink for at least 30 minutes before returning it to the

cachepot.

• As a general rule, water slightly more during an orchid’s growing season and

slightly less while it is resting.

• Many people swear by the “ice cube” watering method. Three (3) ice cubes

per week seems to be just about the right amount of water. Orchids hate

to stay consistently wet so the slow distribution of water throughout the

medium leaves little left at the bottom of the pot; a good thing. And the

outside temperature or season should not dictate your watering practices.

However, if the orchid is placed in a very bright place where it gets lots of

sunlight, the plant may need more that 3 ice cubes per week.

• Important! Do not let your orchid roots sit in water. Many orchids are air

plants (epiphytes) and as such, draw moisture and nutrients from the air.

Over 80% of the orchids that die have literally drowned in too much water.

• Keep flowering orchids away from drafts. Do not let air conditioning blow on

the plants.

• Humidity

• Repotting

• Adequate light is essential to flower orchids. Failure to flower often indicates

there is insufficient light. Orchids are suitable for windowsills. Moderate light

dictates an east or west exposure. Use southern exposure when bright light

is needed. Remember.... No direct sun!

• Orchids need 50 percent humidity or more. You can mist the leaves. You

can place your orchids in the bathroom or on a kitchen ledge over the sink.

Another, easier way to bring humidity to your orchids is to place them on a

tray filled with pebbles and partially filled with water. Remember, the roots

should be supported by the pebbles and not submerged in the water.

• When the roots are absolutely overflowing the pot OR you feel the medium

has broken down too much, it may be time to repot. Take the orchid from its

old pot and carefully remove ALL of the old potting medium from the roots.

Prune off the dead roots—they feel mushy or are a sick, grayish color—

retaining a reasonably sized root ball.

• When pruning the roots of an orchid, be sure to use a sharp, kitchen

scissors. Dip the cutting portion of the scissors in 70% rubbing alcohol EACH

time before taking a cut.

• Never over pot. When repotting, the pot should be sized for the root mass

rather than the foliage. Remember that you may need a stake to hold the

orchid plant upright until such time as the roots grasp onto the medium.

• When we repot at Hana Tropicals, we prefer to use a potting mixture of 1⁄2

orchid bark and 1⁄2 small stones, being sure to rinse both free of dust and

dirt before using. Do not use potting soil.

• Place the orchid in the new pot so that the youngest (growing) part of the

plant is facing towards the center of the pot and the older part has its “back”

to the corner or edge of the pot. The base of the pseudo bulb should be

below the pot rim.

• Holding the orchid firmly in the desired position in one hand, pour in the

potting medium with the other hand.

• Press down gently to stabilize the orchid in its new growing medium.

Sometimes the eraser end of a pencil is useful for pushing the potting

medium down around the roots.

• Label each orchid plant with the date of repotting and the name of the plant

if you have the information. It should not need to be disturbed again for two

or three years.

• A few days after repotting, run water through the orchid’s planting medium

and let it drain 30 minutes in the sink before returning to its cachepot.

Edible Orchids

The good news for Foodies is that the majority of orchids are edible. Flavors range from

slightly floral to spicy to mildly bitter. Best of all, the orchid makes a beautiful addition

to the presentation of any recipe.

About 50 years ago, Island chefs began using exotic, colorful orchid flowers as garnish

on dinner plates and in tropical beverages. The 90’s heralded a change in the usage of

orchids, from merely a colorful decoration, to an herbal ingredient. Today, chefs use

the Oncidium ‘Sherry Baby’—the one that smells like chocolate—as an edible addition to

desserts. The green Dendrobium often has a slightly bitter taste like arugula and goes

well in seafood dishes or salads. Some Cymbidiums taste of melon and are a wonderful

compliment to dessert or salad.

We encourage you to experiment with edible orchids at home or for a special party. It is

a beautiful alternative to the herbs you normally use, and your presentation will make

quite an impression!